With bare root, if the roots laid in the sun for a period allowing them to dry out, then you'll have high mortality. What happens alot with container stock is the water beeds up and gets shed right off the plug surface and it takes a good soaking to overcome this. Even if you use container stock, when you think you added enough water, it still isn't enough. Drought stress as Ron suggests is a big killer of plantings. may explain why recently planted bare- root Norway spruce seedlings had greater mortality on. Unpack your trees, remove all packing materials, carefully untangle the roots and soak the roots in water 3 to 6 hours. In Canada, these folks belong to Associations with legal status akin to RPF associations in some provinces or states.Īs I've said before and possibly others, the best time for planting bare root or transplanting wild trees is before shoot elongation. The Performance of Planted Seedlings Steven C. So dig a good sized soil pit or planting site and ID your soil or have a local agrologist help out. Sampling can be on a grid of several hundred feet to several miles apart. Even looking on a soils map of a soil survey doesn't tell the whole story, as there are many inclusions (or other soil types) on that sampled area which may not be mapped. Sure helps to know your soil type to give a proper diagnoses though. Measure the depth of the root ball to make sure the root collar will be at or a little above ground level when your tree is planted. The prepared soil will make the hole easier to dig and encourage root growth. Just think of it as an excerpt (snippet) from a soils survey report of your state, and there are other types of soils to consider, to aid a proper diagnoses. If you can, rototill an area five times the diameter and as deep as the root ball. I think the remarks concerning clay soils was a possible diagnoses for that soil type and not a suggestion that the site was actually composed of clay soil.
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