These establishments are called osmize, and website shows which are open on any given day. Farms and vineyards on the Karst hills east of the city are allowed to sell their produce direct from their doors for just a few weeks each year. You may not expect a “sports bar” to be the best place in the city for wine, but the cave-like interior of Osteria da Marino, festooned with rugby memorabilia, is a cosy place to sample more than 700 varieties, including those made from the glera grape, also known as prosecco, from the nearby village of the same name. There’s a more experimental spirit at Ristorante Ai Fiori, whose tasting menu includes octopus with barbecue sauce, creamy peas and taro chips. Hostaria Malcanton, a few steps from Piazza Unità, specialises in fish and seafood fried to perfection, or combined with seasonal vegetables in mouthwatering pasta dishes. Alongside traditional sausage and boiled pork dishes, Buffet da Siora Rosa (which celebrated its 100th anniversary last year) also has plenty of meat-free classics, from stewed cuttlefish or gnocchi stuffed with plums to jota, the local bean soup. Photograph: Image Professionals GmbH/Alamyįor more substantial meals, buffet restaurants still serve the dishes fishermen and quayworkers used to eat mid-morning when they finished work. During the day it’s a patisserie selling presnitz – the spiral Triestine pastry stuffed with nuts, currants and rum – and brioche-like pinza by night it’s an elegant backdrop for cocktails.Ĭaffè degli Specchi on the Piazza Unità d’ Italia. And if you think the rich interior of Antico Caffè Torinese resembles an early ocean liner, that’s because that was the designer’s day job. Its owners, the Faggiotto family, have two more worth seeing – Caffè Tommaseo near the seafront, which hosts regular concerts, and Pasticceria La Bomboniera, past the Canal Grande, which showcases a heart-stopping selection of cakes, pastries and chocolates. Of the coffeehouses, Caffè Degli Specchi is the best-known, spreading magisterially across Piazza Unità, where customers wait to be ushered past its red rope. The former Jewish ghetto, behind Piazza della Borsa, hosts a wonderful collection of antique shops, while the once-seedy alleys of Cavana’s historic red-light district (frequented by a certain James Joyce back in the day) are abuzz with bars, restaurants and evening strollers. The streets of this mercantile city offer plenty of good shopping, and the presence of the university has fostered a strong market in rare and secondhand books. Photograph: Image Professionals GmbH/Alamy These green limestone hills have become a foodie destination in their own right, thanks to the wine, ham and cheese produced here, and which make their appearance in Trieste’s buzzing wine bars at aperitivo hour. That multiculturalism is finally re-emerging: Slovenia’s entry into the EU is helping to reintegrate the Slovene-speaking community, which was a major part of the city’s demographic before fascism, and which still dominates the Karst plateau that overlooks the city. A steepish climb through the old town leads to the medieval stone fortress and cathedral, and the view over rooftops is a reminder of the unusual religious freedoms Trieste enjoyed before the first world war: the multiple domes of one of the largest synagogues in Europe, the winking gold mosaics of the Serbian orthodox church, and the white towers of the Greek one. Photograph: Andrea Sabbadini/Alamyīut it’s not all strudel and Viennese waltzes this is a place whose long and diverse history begins at the foot of its hill, where the ruins of a Roman amphitheatre hint at this coast’s importance to Julius Caesar.
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